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veils. They have drawers reaching to the feet, and their
boots, called mesti (Turkish, mesi) are a kind of low boots of
yellow leather, which reach to the instep, under which they
wear slippers. They wear no stays, but a little corset ofdimity, which stops below the bosom, the rest being covered
only by that plain, fine chemise, and another small piece of
stuff which they wear for greater modesty. They adorn their necks and arms with pearls, jewels and gold chains. Their
head dress, of which I have spoken above, consists of a
collection of various handkerchiefs of muslin, prettily shaped,
so that they form a kind of casque of a palm's height, with
a pendant behind to the end of which they attach another
handkerchief folded in a triangle, and allowed to hang on their
shoulders. When they go out of doors modesty requires that
they should take a corner and pull it in front to cover the
chin, mouth and nose. The greater part of the hair remains
under the ornaments mentioned above, except on the forehead
where it is divided into two locks, which are led along the
temples to the ears, and the ends are allowed to hang loose
behind over the shoulders. Those who have abundance of
hair make as many as eight or ten plaits. Cypriot women
like sweet odours about their heads, and to this end adorn
them grotesquely with flowers. The Christian ladies when they go abroad make a great parade of their costumes, while
the Turks are covered from head to foot with a white cotton
sheet.
The realm of Cyprus was governed for many years by a
Pasha, sent by the Ottoman Porte, but the island began to
decline from its ancient splendour, and the necessary cost of
the maintenance of a Pasha and his court being found to
weigh heavily on the people, they petitioned that the practice
might be abolished, and that henceforth they might have
instead a Muhassil or simple governor, which was at once
granted to them. But they soon found the government of a
Muhassil to be burdensome, and some years ago begged that
they might have a Pasha again. This was refused, and they
still find themselves under a yoke which at one time they
thought less oppressive.
The revenues of the country are left to the Vezir A’zam,
grand Vezir or Lieutenant of the Ottoman Empire. But as he
cannot come here to rule it himself, he grants the island to the
highest bidder, and sends him to govern it with a Khatti Sherif
or august writing, a special order of the Grand Signor, bearing
his autograph.
As it is not merit but interest which gives access to this
dignity, it is by interest that the governors regulate their
actions. They ill-use and harass the people, and impose on
them unjust taxes, not only to recoup what they pay to the
Grand Vezir but also enough to allow them to leave the
country after a year, having made their own fortunes and those
of all their train. As the Grand Vezir finds every year in
Constantinople men who offer more to get the reins of this
kingdom, Cyprus is reduced to a miserable condition for want
of money, and of a large yield of its usual rich products
results which follow the abandonment of their country by
thousands of its inhabitants, one of the greatest disgraces of
a state. In all the Turkish dominions there is probably no
place where the dues paid by their subjects are heavier;
amounting, as they sometimes do, to 200 piastres, which
make 100 Florentine scudi yearly per head, without distinction
of larger or smaller means. The mere Kharaj
or poll tax, imposed by the Grand Signor on his subjects,
is only five piastres, while here it was increased to
40 piastres a head. And the people had to consider it a
special favour that after many representations and petitions
they were able to obtain a favourable rescript that they should
not be bound or compelled to pay more than 21 piastres
a head. In the year 1764 the tyranny of Chil Osman
Agha, the Governor, had reached its height, and the people,
the lower class of Turks especially, having grown insolent,
committed the detestable excess of killing him, a deed which
was soon followed by lamentable consequences, as I shall show
in the proper place. I shall give a particular account of these
events, at which I was present, and I had besides occasion to be mixed up with the leaders in the negotiations which were conducted by the Tuscan consul.
The suite of the Muhassil is composed of the Khasnadar
or treasurer, the Kiaya or secretary, and other subaltern
charges entrusted to the Chawushes who are his personal
guards, and the Choqadars^ men about the court, who have
different duties. Their number is not fixed, but there are
generally from 100 to 150, and they have their own chiefs
called Bash-Chawush and Bash-Choqadar. There are besides
the Sarafs, through whose hands pass all the monies which
enter or leave the Treasury, their duty being to test its goodness
and value, and to keep the accounts. This office is held
by a Greek, and the Terjwnan of the Serai^ or interpreter of
the Palace, is also a Greek, who holds his post by a firman or
order of the Porte.
When the Governor wishes to impose some tax on the
Greek ri'aya, or subjects, he does not address himself to the
people directly, but to the
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