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cities. One might add Larnaca, where are the European
mercantile houses. There are also seven large forts, in each
of which is a Disdar or Commandant.
Cyprus surpasses every other Greek island in the number
of natives illustrious for their birth, dignity, learning and
saintliness. Strabo, Geography xiv. 20, says of the island" κατ απετην ουδεμιας των νισων λειπεται
it yields to no Other
island in excellence." Many ancient historians have thought that the air was bad and unwholesome, a prejudice which
causes foreigners to stay here a short time so that they cannot
fully test its climate. But it is the general opinion of all who
have lived here some few years that the air is good. The
tertian and quartan fevers which are seen to prevail so frequently
and for so long a time not only in Cyprus but also
throughout the Levant, spring from causes other and more
avoidable than the air. I learnt from experience that I myself
gave occasion to the relapses which made this malady hang
about me for quite ten months. The great heat causes constant
and copious perspirations, and with these upon one to
expose oneself to the least draught produces a check, which is
followed inevitably the next day by a fever. The use of strong
drinks is another cause, and the free use of certain fruits,
particularly cucumbers, pumpkins and water-melons, which are
difficult to digest. The villagers everywhere suffer often from
these fevers, especially in summer; they let blood and leave
the cure to nature without a change of diet except that they
abstain from fruit. But this treatment is not enough for
Europeans, who have to be more careful lest the malady grow
more severe. A relapse can be avoided by taking sparingly
of any food, and if this is not effective, riding is a remedy of
approved excellence: at least it keeps off the obstructions
which frequently follow this kind of fever. Turks and Greeks
use the same treatment; the latter, wearied sometimes of the
tiresome persistence of the disease, after the fourth or fifth
attack have recourse to a large potion of the excellent and
generous wine of the island, which usually cures most of them,
if taken just when the shiverings point to an early recurrence
of the fever.
There are various religions current in the land for,
although it is ruled by Muslims, Islam is not the prevailing
faith, most of the inhabitants being schismatic Greeks.
There are many Armenians, then come the Maronites who
observe their own rites in the matter of feasts and fasts, but
having no churches of their own they officiate, and fulfil the
duties of Catholic Christians, in the Latin churches. The
number of Latin Catholics is much smaller than that of the
sects named above, for they are only the Europeans settled in
the island, among whom are the fathers of St Francis (Minori
Observanti) called Padri di Terra Santa, the name I shall give
them in my book, for they are known by it throughout the
Levant.
The Turks have a Molla, who ranks as the head of their
Law; the Greeks an archbishop and three bishops; the
Maronites an archpriest, and the Latins two curates, one for
the French, another for the Italian colony, everyone being
free to follow his own religion.
The English have neither church nor house of prayer, but
when they are in sufficient numbers they would assemble in
the house of their consul, and then they would be obliged
to maintain a minister of their religion ; but such is now
wanting.
Greek and Turkish are the common languages, with the
result that both one and the other are corrupted. Greek
has here perhaps adhered with greater purity to the ancient
vocabulary, but the pronunciation is entirely spoiled: an effect,
they say, of the Venetian domination. The Greek commercial
class frequently use Italian, French very little indeed. It is
very remarkable that all orientals learn our Italian tongue with
more ease than the other languages of Europe.
The Cypriots are generally well formed, tall and good
looking, sober and temperate. The women have mostly good
eyes, but ugly features, and few are seen of any special beauty:
they are tall, spirited, little industrious, and luxurious: they
are long lived, and often re-marry when they are already greatgrandmothers.
All Greeks like amusement, but the Cypriots
to excess; and though they be never so much oppressed by
the government they never lose their liveliness.
The men dress alia Turca, like those of Constantinople,
and so too the women of any position, except as to the
adornment of the head, which is high and striking, a fashion
of very ancient date, which they say has been preserved here
more faithfully than in the other Greek islands. Their general
costume, alia Cipriotta, is more scanty than the other alia
Turca it consists of a kind of tight vest, and a skirt of red
cotton cloth, the outer garment, which they call benisce
(Turkish, binish) is of cloth, velvet or other silk stuff. This
is a long mantle, which starts from the shoulders, and passing
over the arms, almost reaches the ground. It is not closed in
front, but leaves the body exposed down to the feet. The
under garments are of silk, made in the country, and like
white
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